Eye for a Recipe

Cabbage is having a culinary moment because it is economical, versatile and nutritious. This recipe from NYT Cooking substitutes cabbage for chicken or pork. The cabbage is roasted until browned and tender. While it is roasting, make some croutons. Spoon tomato sauce over the roasted cabbage, top with mozzarella and bake until the cheese is melted. Serve topped with the croutons and chopped basil. Cook’s note: To make cleanup easier, I covered the baking sheet with heavy-duty foil and then transferred the cooked cabbage into a baking dish before topping with the sauce and cheese.

Avoiding Additives or Preservatives

Ace Bakery bread is usually free of additives and preservatives. No Name tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese are free of additives.

Cabbage Parm

Ingredients:

7 tablespoons (105 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving

1 medium green cabbage (about 2 ½ pounds/1.13 kg), cut into 2-inch (5-cm) wedges

Salt and pepper

½ pound (226 g) bread, such as sourdough or ciabatta, torn into1-inch (2.5-cm) chunks

1 garlic clove, grated

3 cups (750 ml) ounces store-bought or homemade tomato sauce

2 cups (500 ml) ounces grated low-moisture mozzarella

Basil leaves, for topping

Preparation:

Heat the oven to 450 degrees F (232 degrees C) and arrange racks in the middle and bottom of the oven.

Drizzle a sheet pan with 2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oil and then arrange the cabbage wedges on the pan, setting each one flat. Drizzle the top and sides of the cabbage with 3 tablespoons (45 ml) olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place onto the middle rack of the oven and roast until tender and golden, 25 to 35 minutes.

Place the bread on another sheet pan. Add the garlic, drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oil, season with salt and pepper and toss well to coat evenly. Place on the bottom rack of the oven and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the oven, toss the croutons and return to the oven until golden and crispy, 8 to 10 minutes.

Remove the cabbage from the oven and spoon the tomato sauce on top. Top with the mozzarella and return to the oven until the cheese is melted and golden, 10 to 15 minutes.

To serve, scatter croutons and basil leaves on top and drizzle with more olive oil. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

From NYT Cooking

This recipe from NYT Cooking mostly uses pantry ingredients and is a great weeknight supper. Combine canned salmon, panko, mayonnaise, egg, dill, garlic, paprika, lemon zest, salt and pepper. Form the mixture into balls and bake for about 10 minutes. You could also pan fry the salmon balls.

Avoiding Additives and Preservatives

I used Clover Leaf pink salmon, Hellmann’s mayo and homemade breadcrumbs. Check the dried spices to make sure they don’t contain colour or anti-caking agents.

Baked salmon meatballs

Ingredients:

4 (5-ounce/142-g) cans skinless and boneless salmon, drained

1 cup (250 ml) panko breadcrumbs

¼ cup (60 ml) mayonnaise (or olive oil)

1 large egg

¼ cup (60 ml) chopped fresh dill

1 garlic clove, grated

1 teaspoon (5 ml) smoked paprika

1 lemon, zested and cut into wedges

Salt and black pepper

Tartar sauce (optional), or other favourite sauce

Preparation:

Heat the oven to 400 degrees F (204 degrees C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

To a medium bowl, add the salmon, panko, mayonnaise, egg, dill, garlic, paprika, lemon zest and ½ teaspoon (2.5 ml) each of salt and black pepper. Mix until just combined.

Form the salmon mixture into 24 small balls (about 2 tablespoons/30 ml each) and place on the baking sheet. Bake meatballs for 10 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and let rest for 5 minutes.

Serve with lemon wedges and, if you like, tartar sauce or your desired dipping sauce on the side.

From NYT Cooking

If you like Indian flavours, try this recipe from NYT Cooking. The list of spices is long, but the flavour is worth it. Cook the rice with spices. Meanwhile, cook the onion in ghee or butter and add the tomato paste and spices. Add the beef and cook for a few minutes before adding yogurt. Drizzle some milk over the rice and add the beef mixture to the rice. Add cilantro, cover and cook about 8 minutes. While it is cooking, make the raita by mixing yogurt, cumin, water, salt and pepper. When the biryani is done, fluff the rice, garnish with more cilantro and serve with the raita on the side. Cook’s note: I used butter instead of ghee.

Avoiding Additives and Preservatives

Check the dried spices to be sure they don’t contain colour or anti-caking agents. I used Better Than Bouillon paste for the broth, Simple brand tomato paste and Astro yogurt.

Ground beef biryani

Ingredients:

1 ½ cups (375 ml) basmati rice, rinsed

5 cardamom pods

1 cinnamon stick

2 whole cloves

2 cups (500 ml) low-sodium chicken broth

Kosher salt and pepper

3 tablespoons (45 ml) ghee or butter

½ large white onion, thinly sliced (about 1 ½ cups/375 ml)

1 tablespoon (15 ml) tomato paste

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon (15 ml) minced fresh ginger

2 teaspoons (10 ml) garam masala

½ teaspoon (5 ml) ground Kashmiri chile powder or ¼ teaspoon (1.25 ml) cayenne

¼ teaspoon (1.25 ml) ground fennel

¼ teaspoon (1.25 ml) ground turmeric

1 star anise

½ teaspoon (2.5 ml) cumin seeds, divided

1 pound (454 g) ground beef

¾ cup (187.5 ml) Greek-style plain yogurt, divided

¼ cup (60 ml) whole milk

½ cup (125 ml) coarsely chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems, divided

Preparation:

In a large Dutch oven, combine rice, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, broth and ½ teaspoon (2.5 ml) of salt over medium-high heat; cover and bring to a boil. Once it boils, reduce heat to low and cook for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of the ghee or butter in a 12-inch (30-cm) nonstick skillet over medium. Add onion, season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 2 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring, until fragrant and well blended, 2 minutes.

Push onion mixture to one side of the skillet and melt the remaining 1 tablespoon (15 ml) ghee or butter in the empty side. To the melted ghee or butter, add garlic, ginger, garam masala, chile powder, fennel, turmeric, star anise and ¼ teaspoon (1.25 ml) of the cumin; stir until well blended, 30 seconds.

Mix the spices into the onion mixture until well combined, then add beef and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring and breaking up the meat into small pieces, until no longer pink, about 3 minutes (it will finish cooking with the rice). Turn off heat and stir in ¼ cup (60 ml) of the yogurt until well incorporated.

Drizzle milk evenly over the rice, then add the beef mixture on top in an even layer. Scatter over half of the cilantro, cover and cook until the beef is tender and rice is cooked through, 8 minutes longer.

Meanwhile in a small bowl, combine the remaining ½ cup (125 ml) yogurt, ¼ teaspoon (1.25 ml) cumin and 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of water and season with salt and pepper. Mix well.

Gently fluff the rice with a fork and discard star anise and any other visible whole spices. Divide biryani among 4 bowls and garnish with the remaining cilantro. Serve warm, with the cumin raita on the side. Serves 4.

From NYT Cooking

This soup, adapted from a NYT Cooking recipe, is savoury and hearty. Sauté onion and celery and then add garlic and thyme. Stir in the squash and stock and simmer until the squash is tender. Add the beans and cook for a few minutes. Add the sour cream and peas and warm through.

Avoiding Additives and Preservatives

I use Better Than Bouillon for the stock, Simple brand sour cream, Unico canned beans and Green Giant frozen peas.

Butternut squash soup

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 yellow onion, diced

2 celery stalks, diced

Salt and pepper

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

4 thyme sprigs, leaves picked

3 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeds discarded and cut into 1-inch pieces (about 5 cups total)

2 cups vegetable or chicken stock

1 (14-ounce) can cannellini beans, rinsed

½ cup sour cream

2 cups frozen peas

Preparation:

Heat a large Dutch oven or pot on medium-high until hot. Add the olive oil, onion and celery; season with salt and stir until softened and starting to colour, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic and thyme and stir until fragrant, 30 to 45 seconds.

Stir in the butternut squash and vegetable stock, cover and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to medium and cook until the butternut squash is tender, 15 to 18 minutes.

Place the cannellini beans into a bowl and roughly mash a portion of them with a fork. Uncover the butternut squash, add the beans and stir to combine. Cook, uncovered, until thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the sour cream and peas and heat until everything is warmed through. Taste and season well with salt and pepper.

To serve, ladle the butternut squash mixture into bowls. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

From NYT Cooking

This recipe from NYT Cooking is a great side dish. Roast the parsnips until golden. Meanwhile, combine miso and lemon juice in a large bowl. Cook oil, thyme and garlic until the garlic is just golden and add to the miso mixture. Toss the arugula with the miso mixture and scatter over the parsnips. Sprinkle with Parmesan and lemon zest and serve. Cook’s note: I used a mixture of parsnips and carrots and butter lettuce instead of arugula. I omitted the lemon zest.

Avoiding Additives and Preservatives

I used Smart Miso brand white miso and freshly squeezed lemon juice. Genuine Parmesan contains no additives—look for the name stamped on the rind.

Parsnips with miso and Parmesan

Ingredients:

2¼ pounds (1.13 kg) parsnips, peeled and quartered lengthwise (or halved, if thin)

5 tablespoons (75 ml extra-virgin olive oil, divided

2 tablespoons (30 ml) fresh thyme leaves, divided

Fine sea salt

1 tablespoon (15 ml) white miso paste

1 teaspoon (5 ml) finely grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon juice

8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

2 cups (500 ml) packed arugula

½ cup (125 ml) lightly packed finely grated Parmesan

Preparation:

Heat oven to 450 degrees F (232 C).

Line a 11-by-17-inch (28-by-43-cm) sheet pan with parchment paper. Mix the parsnips with 3 tablespoons (45 ml) of the oil, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of the thyme, 3 tablespoons (45 ml) water and 1 teaspoon (5 ml) salt, then spread them in an even layer. Roast for 20 minutes, then turn them using a spatula and roast until nicely golden, another 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, whisk the miso and lemon juice together in a large heatproof bowl.

Add the remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml) oil, the remaining 1 tablespoon (15 ml) thyme and the garlic to a small pan and heat on medium-high, stirring often, just until the garlic starts to turn lightly golden, about 3 minutes, then pour the mixture into the miso bowl and stir to combine.

To serve, toss the arugula in the miso bowl until well coated. Scatter the arugula and any dressing left in the bowl over the parsnips. Sprinkle the Parmesan and the lemon zest over the top. Serves 4-6.

From NYT Cooking

This recipe from NYT Cooking flavours chicken thighs with smoky spices, lemon and garlic. Season thighs with spices and pour lemon juice over them. Arrange lemon slices under the chicken, scatter garlic cloves and leeks over the chicken, sprinkle with rosemary and drizzle with oil. Roast for about an hour. After the chicken has cooked for 30 minutes, arrange squash rings on a baking sheet, drizzle with oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper and roast for a half hour or until tender. Serve chicken with squash and garnish with a mixture of parsley and lemon zest. Cook’s note: Because the squash was cooked on a separate baking sheet, it is not shown in the photo. I omitted the parsley-lemon zest garnish.

Avoiding Additives and Preservatives

Check the dried spices to make sure they don’t contain colour or anti-caking agents. Use freshly squeezed lemon juice.

Lemon garlic roast chicken with squash

Ingredients:

6 large bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (about 3 ½ to 4 pounds/1.6 to 1.8 kg)

Salt and pepper

1 teaspoon (5 ml) turmeric

1 teaspoon (5 ml) smoked paprika

½ cup lemon juice (from 3 lemons)

3 lemons, 2 cut crosswise into 1/8-inch (0.3-cm) slices, 1 zested

2 heads garlic, separated into unpeeled cloves

3 small leeks, cut into 2-inch (5-cm) lengths

½ cup (125 ml) rosemary leaves, stripped from about 6 sprigs

2 tablespoons (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling.

2 delicata squash, seeds removed, sliced crosswise into ½-inch (1.25-cm) rings and seeded

¼ cup (60 ml) chopped parsley

Preparation:

Set chicken thighs in a single layer in a roasting pan. Season generously on both sides with salt and pepper. Put a pinch of turmeric and a pinch of smoked paprika on each thigh and rub into the surface. Pour lemon juice over chicken and let marinate for 30 minutes, if time allows.

Heat oven to 400 degrees F (204 C). Arrange lemon slices around and under chicken. Scatter garlic cloves and leeks over top. Sprinkle with rosemary and drizzle with about 2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oil. Roast on the middle rack of the oven, uncovered, for about an hour, until meat is tender and the juices run clear when probed, and the chicken is nicely browned and lemon slices slightly charred.

Meanwhile, arrange the squash rings on a baking sheet. Drizzle lightly with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Add to the oven after the chicken has cooked for about 30 minutes. Roast uncovered on top rack of oven until lightly browned and fork-tender, about 30 minutes.

To serve, mix together parsley and lemon zest. Transfer chicken, garlic, leeks and lemon slices to a serving platter (or serve from an oven-to-table roasting pan). Top with squash rings and parsley-lemon mixture. Serves 6.

From NYT Cooking

This hearty vegetarian dish from NYT Cooking is nutritious and economical. Wash, blanch and chop kale. Cook onion, carrots and celery, then add garlic and tomato paste. Add dried beans, spices and kale, bring to a simmer and then bake in the oven for about three hours. Mix olive oil with breadcrumbs, sprinkle on top of the beans and bake for about 30 minutes to one hour.

Avoiding Additives and Preservatives

Simple brand tomato paste is free of additives. Check the dried spices to make sure they don’t contain colour or anti-caking agents. I whirled some Ace Bakery bread (which is usually free of additives and preservatives) in the food processor to make the breadcrumbs.

Slow-baked beans with kale

Ingredients:

1 bunch kale, stemmed and washed in two changes of water

3 tablespoons (15 ml) extra virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

1 carrot, chopped

1 rib celery, chopped

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 2/3 cups (415 ml) white beans (¾ pound/340 g) or dried lima beans, picked over and soaked for at least four hours and drained

1 6-ounce (170 g) can tomato paste, dissolved in 1 cup (250 ml) water

3 cups (750 ml) additional water

A bouquet garni consisting of 4 parsley sprigs, 2 thyme sprigs and a bay leaf

1 teaspoon (5 ml) herbes de Provence

Salt

A generous amount of freshly ground pepper

½ cup (125 ml) bread crumbs

Preparation:

Preheat the oven to 225 degrees F (107 C). Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil, salt generously and add the kale. Blanch for two minutes, then transfer to a bowl of ice water. Drain, squeeze out water and cut into ribbons. Set aside.

Heat 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of the olive oil over medium heat in a large ovenproof casserole. Add the onion, carrots and celery. Cook, stirring often, until the onion is tender, about five minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, 30 seconds to a minute. Add the dissolved tomato paste and bring to a simmer.

Add the drained beans, the remaining water, the bouquet garni, herbes de Provence and salt and pepper. Stir in the kale, bring to a simmer, cover and place in the oven. Bake three hours until the beans are tender and creamy. Taste and adjust salt. Make sure that the beans come to a simmer on top of the stove before placing them in the oven. Do not use old beans, which will not soften no matter how long you simmer them. If the beans do not soften in the oven after a couple of hours, raise the heat to 300 degrees F (149 C).

Mix together the remaining olive oil and the breadcrumbs. Sprinkle the breadcrumbs over the beans and continue to bake another 30 minutes to an hour until the breadcrumbs are lightly browned. Remove from the heat and serve; or allow to cool slightly and serve. Serve 6. Make ahead: You can make this recipe through until the end of the three-hour baking time then cool and store in the refrigerator up to four days ahead of serving. Top with the breadcrumbs and reheat in a 350-degree F (177 C) oven for 15 minutes until the beans are bubbling and the breadcrumbs lightly browned.

From NYT Cooking

Everyone loves enchiladas and this recipe from NYT Cooking is tasty and satisfying. You can used canned enchilada sauce or make your own from the recipe below. Use leftover cooked chicken, meat from a rotisserie chicken or roast a large chicken breast.

Avoiding Additives and Preservatives

Check the dried spices and tortillas to make sure they don’t contain colour or additives. I use Better Than Bouillon paste for the stock and Simple brand tomato paste. Check the cheddar to make sure it does not contain colour.

Chicken enchiladas

Ingredients:

Enchilada sauce

3 tablespoons (45 ml) vegetable oil

2 tablespoons (30 ml) all-purpose flour

¼ cup (60 ml) chili powder

1 teaspoon (5 ml) garlic powder

1 teaspoon (5 ml) onion powder

1 teaspoon (5 ml) dried oregano

½ teaspoon (2.5 ml) ground cumin

½ teaspoon (2.5 ml) black pepper

½ teaspoon (2.5 ml) kosher salt

2 tablespoons (30 ml) tomato paste

3 cups (750 ml) low-sodium chicken, mushroom or vegetable stock

Enchiladas

¼ cup (60 ml) vegetable oil

12 (6-inch/15-cm) corn tortillas

½ medium white onion, chopped

1 medium poblano or green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 large tomatoes, cored and finely chopped

Kosher salt

2 cups (500 ml) cooked shredded chicken (from a roast chicken or rotisserie chicken)

2 ½ cups (625 ml) enchilada sauce, canned or homemade

12 ounces (340 g/3 cups/750 ml) sharp Cheddar, shredded

Preparation:

Enchilada sauce

Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium. Add flour and cook, stirring frequently until clumps have disappeared and mixture is bubbling, about 1 minute. Add chili powder, garlic powder, onion powder, oregano, cumin, pepper and salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until a thick paste forms. Use the back of a spoon to smash and smear the paste onto the bottom of the pot, until very fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomato paste, stirring until caramelized, about 1 minute.

Whisk in chicken broth until no lumps remain. Bring to a boil over high, then reduce to medium and simmer until the sauce thickens slightly, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to a week or freeze for up to 3 months. Makes 2 ½ cups (625 ml).

Enchiladas

Heat the oven to 400 degrees F (204 degrees C). Using 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of the oil, lightly brush both sides of each tortilla. Heat a large skillet or griddle over medium-high and, working in batches, cook tortillas until lightly browned and just starting to crisp but still pliable, 45 seconds to 1 minute per side. (This will prevent the tortillas from completely falling apart while cooking.) Set aside.

Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of oil in a large skillet over medium-high and cook onion, poblano, garlic, tomatoes and juices, and 1 teaspoon (5 ml) salt, stirring and scraping up any browned bits, until most of the liquid has evaporated and tomatoes begin to stick to the skillet, 9 to 11 minutes. Stir in chicken, ½ cup (125 ml) enchilada sauce and ½ teaspoon (2.5 ml) salt until combined and just warmed through; remove from heat. Taste and season with additional salt, if necessary.

Pour ½ cup (125 ml) enchilada sauce into a 9-by-13-inch (23-by33-cm) baking dish, spreading to cover the bottom. Working one at a time, arrange a scant ¼ cup (60 ml) of chicken down the centre of the tortilla, roll to secure the filling and place seam side down in the baking dish. Repeat with remaining tortillas and chicken, making sure they’re nestled right up against each other.

Pour the remaining enchilada sauce over the tortillas, then scatter cheese on top. Bake until the sauce is bubbling and the cheese is just beginning to brown, 15 to 20 minutes. For leftovers, divide remaining enchiladas into portions of 2 or 3; wrap each portion tightly in plastic wrap or place in a freezer bag, squeeze out the air, seal and freeze for up to 3 months. Serves 6.

From NYT Cooking

This recipe from NYT Cooking is a one-pan meal that combines chicken and scallions with tomatoes in a savoury Dijon-wine sauce. Top with fresh herbs for a pop of colour and flavour.

Avoiding Additives and Preservatives

I use President’s Choice Old-Fashioned Dijon, which is free of additives. I used a white wine from Frogpond Farm with a sulfite content below 10 parts per million. Check the dried oregano to make sure it does not contain colour or anti-caking agents.

Brown chicken

Add tomatoes

Dijon chicken with tomatoes and scallions

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oil

1 ½ pounds (680 g) boneless, skinless chicken thighs, patted dry

Salt and fresh black pepper

4 scallions, light green and white parts thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, grated or minced

1 tablespoon (15 ml) dried oregano

1 tablespoon (15 ml) Dijon mustard

½ cup (125 ml) white wine

4 cups (1 L) cherry or grape tomatoes

¼ cup (60 ml) packed cilantro, parsley or basil leaves and tender stems, gently torn or chopped

Preparation:

Heat the oil in a wide pot or deep 12-inch (30-cm) skillet over medium-high until it shimmers. Add the chicken in an even layer and season the top with salt and pepper. Cook, undisturbed, until the chicken is browned and easily releases from the pan, 7 to 9 minutes.

Flip the chicken and add the scallions to the empty spaces in the pot. Season lightly with salt. Let cook until the scallions soften, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic, oregano, mustard and white wine, turning the chicken pieces over and back again to stir everything together, about 1 minute.

Add the tomatoes and season with salt. Cook, stirring occasionally and gently pressing the tomatoes with the back of a wooden spoon, until the tomatoes burst and the chicken is cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes more. Add a few tablespoons of water if it looks dry at any point.

Sprinkle with the cilantro and serve. Serves 4.

From NYT Cooking

This recipe from NYT Cooking is a keeper. The featured ingredient is chile crisp, a Sichuan-style Chinese condiment made with oil, onion and spices. Cook garlic and the white and light green parts of scallions. Add tomato paste, chile crisp and beans. Sprinkle cheese on top and bake for about 10 minutes. If you want the top to be browner, broil for a few minutes. Cook’s note: I used minced fresh onion instead of dried in the chile crisp.

Avoiding Additives and Preservatives

I haven’t been able to find preservative-free chile crisp, so I made my own. The recipe, also from NYT Cooking, is below. Make sure to check the spices for colour or anti-caking agents. Simple brand tomato paste is free of additives. Blue Menu white beans are free of preservatives. You could also soak and cook a cup of dried white beans. Make sure the cheddar does not contain colour.

Cheesy chile crisp white beans

Ingredients:

Chile crisp

½ cup (125 ml) vegetable oil

¼ cup (60 ml) dried minced onion

1 teaspoon (5 ml) granulated sugar

1 ½ teaspoons (7.5 ml) kosher salt

1/3 cup (85 ml) finely crushed dried small red chiles or red-pepper flakes

3 tablespoons (45 ml) sesame seeds

1 teaspoon (5 ml) coarsely ground Sichuan peppercorns

Beans

2 tablespoons (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

3 fat garlic cloves, thinly sliced

3 scallions, thinly sliced, white and light green parts separated from dark greens

1 tablespoon (15 ml) tomato paste

2 teaspoons to 2 tablespoons (10 ml to 30 ml) chile crisp or chile paste, to taste

2 (15-ounce/425 g) cans white beans, such as cannellini or Great Northern, drained and rinsed

½ teaspoon (2.5 ml) fine sea salt, plus more to taste

8 ounces (227 g) sharp white Cheddar, grated (about 2 cups/500 ml)

Preparation:

Chile crisp

Combine the oil, onion, ½ teaspoon (2.5 ml) sugar and ½ teaspoon (2.5 ml) salt in a small saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion becomes evenly golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes.

Add the chiles, sesame seeds and Sichuan peppercorns and sizzle, stirring, for 1 minute, then stir in the remaining ½ teaspoon (2.5 ml) sugar and 1 teaspoon (5 ml) salt. Use immediately or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks. Makes 1¼ cups (310 ml).

Beans

Heat oven to 475 degrees F (246 C). In a 10-inch (25-cm) ovenproof skillet, heat olive oil over medium-high. Add garlic and white and light green scallion slices, reserving the dark greens for later. Cook until lightly golden, 1 to 3 minutes. Carefully stir in tomato paste and chile crisp and cook for 1 minute.

Stir in the beans and salt. Taste mixture, adding more salt and chili crisp as needed (remember that the cheese will add saltiness, so don’t overdo the salt here). Sprinkle cheese evenly over the top. Bake for 6 to 10 minutes, or until the cheese has melted and browned in spots. If you’d like to toast the top further, run the skillet under the broiler for 1 to 2 minutes. Sprinkle with reserved scallion greens and serve. Serves 4.

From NYT Cooking