This recipe from the New York Times is a great comfort-food meal for these cold, end-of-winter days. Fry some onions until soft and set half aside. Add spices and tomatoes and cook until slightly thickened. Meanwhile, cook some rotini or small pasta shells. Add the cooked pasta to the sauce with some parsley, top with the reserved onions and cheeses and bake until the dish is bubbling and the cheese has browned.

Avoiding Additives and Preservatives

Check the dried spices to make sure they don’t contain colour or anti-caking agents. Look for cheddar that does not contain colour. Genuine Parmesan cheese is all-natural. If you choose to use hot sauce, try original Tabasco or Simply Natural Organic sriracha.

Cook onions until brown and tender

Simmer tomato sauce

Add cooked pasta to sauce

Place reserved onions and cheese on top of pasta and sauce

Baked skillet pasta with cheddar and fried onions

Ingredients:

6  tablespoons (90 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

3  large onions, thinly sliced

1  large bay leaf

1 ½ teaspoons (7.5 ml) ground coriander

1  teaspoon (5 ml) ground cumin

Pinch of cayenne, plus more to taste

1 ¼ (6.25 ml) teaspoons fine sea salt, plus more as needed

3  fat garlic cloves, minced

1  teaspoon (5 ml) cumin seeds

1  teaspoon (5 ml) black pepper

⅛ teaspoon (0.6 ml) ground allspice

1  (15-ounce/443 ml) can whole peeled plum tomatoes

1  pound (454 g) small pasta, such as rotini or shells

¾ cup (180 ml) chopped parsley or cilantro (or use a combination of cilantro and parsley), plus more for serving

8  ounces (227 g) shredded Cheddar

½  cup (125 ml) grated Parmesan

Hot sauce, for serving (optional

Preparation:

Heat ¼ cup (60 ml) oil in a 12-inch (30 cm) skillet over high heat. Add onions and bay leaf, and cook, stirring frequently, until softened and browned in spots, 12 to 20 minutes. (Reduce heat if the pan starts to scorch.) Lower heat to medium, and stir in coriander, ground cumin, cayenne and ¼ teaspoon (1.25 ml) salt; cook 1 more minute. Transfer half the onions to a bowl and reserve (leave the bay leaf in the skillet).

Add garlic, cumin seeds, pepper and allspice to the skillet, and stir. Cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Pour in the juice from the canned tomatoes. Use your hands or kitchen scissors to squish or cut the tomatoes into pieces and add to pan. Fill the empty tomato can with water, and pour into the skillet. Add remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml) oil and remaining 1 teaspoon (5 ml) salt, and bring mixture to a simmer. Simmer until thickened, about 20 minutes. Taste, and add more salt and cayenne if you like. Remove bay leaf.

As mixture cooks, heat oven to 400 degrees F (204 C) and bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook pasta until just about 2 minutes shy of al dente. Reserve 1 cup (250 ml) pasta water, and drain pasta.

Stir pasta, reserved pasta water, and parsley into skillet with tomato sauce. Top with reserved browned onions, Cheddar and Parmesan. Transfer to oven and bake until golden and bubbly, 20 to 25 minutes. If you like, you can run the pan under the broil to brown the top, or leave it as is. Let cool slightly, top with more parsley, if desired, and serve with hot sauce, if you like. Serves 4-6.

From the New York Times

This is a great recipe that uses buttermilk and pickle juice in a marinade that yields moist and delicious chicken. After marinating the chicken, place it on a sheet pan with carrots and potatoes. Roast for 40 minutes, then add cherry tomatoes and roast for another 10 minutes or until chicken is done. Remove the chicken and set it aside. Scatter kale (I used hardy mixed greens) over the vegetables and broil until the greens and vegetables are slightly charred. I used regular mini potatoes instead of mini sweet potatoes.

Avoiding Additives and Preservatives

Many pickles contain preservatives. I used juice from a jar of Putter’s dill pickles. Make sure the smoked paprika doesn’t contain colour, flavour or anti-caking agents. I used Syren brand.

After marinating in buttermilk and pickle juice, roast chicken and vegetables

Remove chicken and scatter greens over vegetables

Broil until green begin to wilt and vegetables are slightly charred

Sheet pan buttermilk chicken

Ingredients:

Marinade

1¼ cups (310 ml) buttermilk

⅓ cup (82.5 ml) pickle juice (from dill pickles or cornichons)

Half onion, thinly sliced

5 cloves garlic, smashed

1½ tsp (7.5 ml) kosher salt

½ tsp (2.5 ml) each smoked paprika and pepper

Chicken and vegetables

1 whole chicken (about 1.5 kg/3.3 lbs), cut in 8 pieces (or 2 each bone-in skin-on chicken breasts and legs, halved)

1 bunch carrots (with stems), leaves trimmed

1 680 g (1.5 lb) bag mini sweet potatoes, halved diagonally

¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, divided

½ tsp (2.5 ml) each salt and pepper, divided

12 cherry tomatoes

1 bunch kale, stemmed and torn in large pieces

Preparation:

Marinade

In large resealable plastic bag, combine buttermilk, pickle juice, onion, garlic, salt, paprika and pepper.

Add chicken to marinade; seal bag. Massage to evenly coat. Place on baking sheet; refrigerate for 3 hours or overnight. Bring to room temperature before roasting.

Preheat oven to 425°F (218°C). Line baking sheet with parchment paper. Halve any larger carrots lengthwise. On pan, toss together carrots, sweet potatoes, 2 tbsp (30 ml) of the oil and ¼ tsp (1.25 ml) each of the salt and pepper.

Drain chicken, discarding marinade; pat dry with paper towel. Place in large bowl. Drizzle with remaining 2 tbsp (30 ml) oil; sprinkle with remaining ¼ tsp (1.25 ml) each salt and pepper, tossing to coat. Arrange over vegetables. Roast until chicken is browned and vegetables are tender, about 40 minutes, adding tomatoes during last 10 minutes of cooking. Transfer chicken to plate; loosely cover with foil.

Broil vegetables for 2 minutes; remove from oven. Scatter kale over vegetables, gently tossing to coat. Broil until kale is crisp and vegetables are slightly charred, 2 to 3 minutes. Serves 4-6.

From Canadian Living

This tasty recipe from the March issue of Canadian Living can be on the table in about 40 minutes. Cook onion and garlic, add tomato paste, wine, tomatoes and sugar and simmer until thickened. Cook the pasta and then add the mussels to the sauce and cook until they open, about 5 minutes. Add the cooked pasta to the mussels and sauce and serve with crusty bread.

Avoiding Additives and Preservatives

Use butter that contains only cream. I used No Name tomato paste and Unico tomatoes. You can skip the wine or use one that contains only naturally occurring sulfites. I used a white wine from  Frogpond Farm.

The sauce comes together quickly; simmer for a few minutes until it thickens.

Steam the mussels and then add the cooked noodles.

Ingredients:

2.2 lbs (1 kg) mussels

2 tbsp (30 ml) butter

2 tbsp (30 ml) olive oil

1 onion, chopped

3 cloves garlic, minced

¾ tsp (3 ml) salt

Pinch pepper

¼ tsp (1 ml) hot pepper flakes (optional)

2 tbsp (30 ml) tomato paste

¾ cup dry (185 ml) white wine

1 14-oz can (398 ml) no-salt-added diced tomatoes

1 tsp (5 ml) granulated sugar

8 oz (225 g) dried fettuccine

3 tbsp (45 ml) chopped parsley

Preparation:

Using stiff brush, scrub mussels; remove any beards. Discard any mussels that do not open when tapped. Set aside.

In large pot, melt butter and oil over medium heat; cook onion, garlic, salt, pepper and hot pepper flakes, stirring often, until softened, about 8 minutes. Stir in tomato paste; cook for 1 minute. Add wine and cook for 1 minute.

Add tomatoes and sugar; bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low; cover and cook until slightly thickened, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes.

Add mussels, stirring to coat. Increase heat to medium; cover and cook until mussels open, about 5 minutes. Discard any mussels that remain closed.

Meanwhile, in large pot of boiling water, cook pasta according to package directions; drain.

Add pasta to mussel mixture; stir to coat. Divide among bowls and sprinkle with parsley. Serves 4.

From Canadian Living

The ingredient list for this delicious dish from Cook’s Illustrated may seem long, but once you have your ingredients ready the stir-fry comes together in about 20 minutes. Marinate and stir-fry pork, cook scallions, shiitake mushrooms and Napa cabbage and toss with noodles. Better than take-out!

Avoiding Additives and Preservatives

I have never been able to find ready-made oyster sauce and hoisin sauce that are additive-free, so I make my own. The recipes are below; make sure the peanut butter and sesame seed oil are additive-free. Use tamari instead of soy sauce and check the dried spices to make sure they don’t contain colour or anti-caking agents. I used Imagine Organic chicken stock and Eden rice cooking wine. I used Simply Natural sriracha for the chile sauce; you could also use original-style Tabasco.

Marinate and sear pork

Add mushrooms and scallions

Cook garlic and cabbage until the cabbage is slightly wilted

Pork stir-fry with noodles

Ingredients:

Oyster Sauce

1 ½ tablespoons (25 ml) tamari

1 tablespoon (15 ml) sugar

1 ½ teaspoons (7 ml) cornstarch

Hoisin Sauce

4 tbsp (60 ml) tamari

2 tbsp (30 ml) peanut butter

1 tbsp (15 ml) honey

2 tsp (10 ml) white vinegar

Pinch garlic powder

2 tsp sesame seed oil

1 tsp (5 ml) Tabasco sauce

Pinch pepper

For stir-fry

3 tablespoons (45 ml) soy sauce

2 tablespoons (30 ml) oyster sauce

2 tablespoons (30 ml) hoisin sauce

1 tablespoon (15 ml) toasted sesame oil

¼ teaspoon (1 ml) five-spice powder

1 pound (454 g) boneless pork, sliced crosswise into 1/8-inch pieces (0.3-cm)

¼ teaspoon (1 ml) liquid smoke (optional)

½ cup (125 ml) low-sodium chicken broth

1 teaspoon (5 ml) cornstarch

2 medium garlic cloves, minced or pressed through a garlic press (about 2 teaspoons/10 ml)

2 teaspoons (10 ml) grated fresh ginger

4 ½ teaspoons (25 ml) vegetable oil

4 tablespoons (60 ml) Chinese rice cooking wine (Shao-Xing) or dry sherry

½ pound (227 g) shiitake mushrooms, stems trimmed, caps cut in halves or thirds (about 3 cups/750 ml)

2 bunches scallions, whites thinly sliced and greens cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces (about 2 cups/500 ml)

1 small head Napa or Chinese cabbage, halved, cored, and sliced crosswise into ½ -inch (1.25 -m) strips (about 4 cups/1 L)

12 ounces (340 g) dried Chinese egg noodles (lo mein) or 8 ounces (227 g) dried linguine (see note)

1 tablespoon (15 ml) Asian chile garlic sauce

Preparation:

Combine oyster sauce ingredients and set aside.

Combine hoisin sauce ingredients and set aside.

Bring 4 quarts (4 L)  water to boil in Dutch oven over high heat.

Whisk soy sauce, oyster sauce, hoisin sauce, sesame oil, and five-spice powder together in medium bowl. Place 3 tablespoons (45 ml) soy sauce mixture in large zipper-lock bag; add pork and liquid smoke, if using. Press out as much air as possible and seal bag, making sure that all pieces are coated with marinade. Refrigerate at least 15 minutes or up to 1 hour. Whisk broth and cornstarch into remaining soy sauce mixture in medium bowl. In separate small bowl, mix garlic and ginger with ½ teaspoon (2.5 ml) vegetable oil; set aside.

Heat 1 teaspoon vegetable oil in 12-inch (30-cm) cast-iron or non-stick skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add half of pork in single layer, breaking up clumps with wooden spoon. Cook, without stirring, 1 minute. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons (30 ml) wine to skillet; cook, stirring constantly, until liquid is reduced and pork is well coated, 30 to 60 seconds. Transfer pork to medium bowl and repeat with remaining pork, 1 teaspoon (5 ml) oil, and remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml) wine. Wipe skillet clean with paper towels.

Return skillet to high heat, add 1 teaspoon (5 ml) vegetable oil, and heat until just smoking. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until light golden brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Add scallions and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until scallions are wilted, 2 to 3 minutes longer; transfer vegetables to bowl with pork.

Add remaining teaspoon vegetable oil and cabbage to now-empty skillet; cook, stirring occasionally, until spotty brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Clear center of skillet; add garlic-ginger mixture and cook, mashing mixture with spoon, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir garlic mixture into cabbage; return pork-vegetable mixture and chicken broth-soy mixture to skillet; simmer until thickened and ingredients are well incorporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove skillet from heat.

While cabbage is cooking, stir noodles into boiling water. Cook, stirring occasionally, until noodles are tender, 3 to 4 minutes for dried Chinese noodles or 10 minutes for dried linguine. Drain noodles and transfer back to Dutch oven; add cooked stir-fry mixture and garlic-chili sauce, tossing noodles constantly, until sauce coats noodles. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

From Cook’s Illustrated

This recipe from Ina Garten’s new cookbook Cook Like a Pro, is based on the farro salad served at New York City’s Charlie Bird restaurant. Farro is cooked in apple juice or cider, then tossed with a lemony vinaigrette, pistachios, parsley, mint, tomatoes and radishes. Delicious!

Avoiding Additives and Preservatives

I used pure apple juice instead of cider. Be sure to use freshly squeezed lemon juice, genuine Parmesan cheese that does not contain additives and pistachios with no colour or preservatives added.

This salad contains arugula, herbs, tomatoes, radishes and pistachios.

Toss the cooked farro with the vinaigrette and let stand for 15 minutes.

Charlie Bird's Farro Salad

Ingredients:

1 cup (250 ml) pearled farro (6 ounces/170 g)

1 cup (250 ml) fresh apple cider

2 bay leaves

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ cup (125 ml) good olive oil

¼ cup (60 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice

½ cup (125 ml) roasted, salted pistachios, whole or chopped

1 cup (250 ml) roughly chopped fresh parsley

1 cup (250 ml) roughly chopped fresh mint leaves

1 cup (250 ml) cherry or grape tomatoes, halved through the stem

1/3 cup (85 ml) thinly sliced radishes (2 to 3 radishes)

2 cups (500 ml) baby arugula

½ cup (125 ml) shaved Italian Parmesan cheese

Flaked sea salt, such as Maldon

Preparation:

Place the farro, apple cider, bay leaves, 2 teaspoons (10 ml) salt, and 2 cups (500 ml) water in a medium saucepan, bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer uncovered for about 30 minutes, until the farro is tender. (If all the liquid is absorbed before the farro is tender, add a little more water.)

Drain the farro and transfer to a large serving bowl. Discard the bay leaves.

Meanwhile, in a small measuring cup, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, 1 teaspoon (5 ml) salt, and ½ teaspoon (2.5 ml) pepper. Stir the vinaigrette into the warm farro and set aside for at least 15 minutes to cool. Before serving, stir in the pistachios, parsley, mint, tomatoes, and radishes.

Add the arugula and lightly fold in the Parmesan so as not to break it up too much. Sprinkle with the sea salt and serve immediately. Serves 6.

From Cook Like a Pro by the Barefoot Contessa

This is a delicious recipe from Food and Wine that combines spicy beef with fresh greens and herbs. The ingredient list may seem long, but the dish comes together quickly once you have everything ready to go.

Avoiding Additives and Preservatives

I have never been able to find additive-free oyster sauce, so I make my own. The recipe is below. Use tamari instead of soy sauce because it contains alcohol as a preservative instead of sodium benzoate. I use Cock brand fish sauce and Marukan rice vinegar.

Marinate beef for 20 minutes

Combine salad ingredients

Sear the beef quickly

Shaking Beef

Ingredients:

Oyster Sauce

1 ½ tablespoons (25 ml) soy sauce

1 tablespoon (15 ml) sugar

1 ½ teaspoons (7 ml) cornstarch

Beef

1 ½  tablespoons (25 ml) oyster sauce, plus more to taste

1 tablespoon (15 ml) soy sauce

1 ½ teaspoons (7.5 ml) granulated sugar

1 ½ teaspoons (7.5 ml) cornstarch

1 teaspoon (5 ml) fish sauce

½ teaspoon (2.5 ml) freshly ground black pepper

2 garlic cloves, smashed

1 ½ pounds (680 g) boneless rib eye steak or New York strip steak, trimmed and cut into ¾ – to 1-inch pieces (1.9- to 2.5-cm)

Salad

¼ cup (60 ml) thinly sliced red onion or shallot

2 tablespoons (30 ml) water

1 ½ tablespoons (25 ml) unseasoned rice vinegar

1 ½ teaspoons (7.5 ml) granulated sugar or honey

1/8 teaspoon (0.65 ml)  fine sea salt

1/8 teaspoon (0.65 ml) freshly ground black pepper

4 cups (1 L) lightly packed watercress, baby arugula, or other salad greens

1 cup (250 ml) torn radicchio or 8 halved cherry tomatoes

¼ cup (60 ml) fresh mint, basil, or other herb leaves, torn

2 tablespoons (30 ml) canola oil or other neutral oil (such as grapeseed)

Preparation:

Make the oyster sauce

Combine all ingredients in a small bowl.

Make the beef

Stir together oyster sauce, soy sauce, sugar, cornstarch, fish sauce, pepper, and garlic in a medium bowl. If a saltier finish is desired, add up to 1 ½ teaspoons (7.5 ml) more oyster sauce. Add beef, toss well to coat, and let marinate 20 minutes at room temperature.

Make the salad

Rinse onions in a strainer under cold running water for about 10 seconds; set aside. Whisk together 2 tablespoons (30 ml) water, vinegar, sugar, salt, and pepper in a large bowl until sugar is dissolved. Add onion; top with watercress, radicchio, and herbs. Do not toss.

Heat a large, heavy skillet over high, and add oil. When oil is shimmering, carefully add beef in a single layer. Cook, shaking pan every 30 to 60 seconds, until seared on all sides and meat reaches desired degree of doneness, 3 to 4 minutes for medium-rare. Remove from heat. Quickly toss salad, and transfer to a platter or serving dish. Pile cooked beef and juices on salad, and serve immediately. Serves 4.

From Food and Wine

This sheet pan chicken recipe from the New York Times cooks the chicken with grapes, but I switched them out for asparagus and broccoli added to the pan for the last 15 minutes of cooking.

Avoiding Additives and Preservatives

Check the za’tar to make sure it doesn’t contain preservatives or anti-caking agents. I used Bart’s Blends. Grapes are often treated with preservatives, which is why I don’t cook with them.

Arrange chicken and other ingredients on baking sheet

Roast until the chicken is cooked and the vegetables are tender

Sheet pan chicken with shallots

Ingredients:

2 ½ to 3 pounds (1.13 to 1.36 kg) bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs, patted dry

3  tablespoons (45 ml) olive oil

2  garlic cloves, finely chopped

1  tablespoon (15 ml) za’atar (optional)

Kosher salt and black pepper

6  medium to large shallots, peeled and quartered root to stem

8  ounces (226 g) seedless red or green grapes, or a combination of both, broken into small clusters on the vine

4 to 5 sprigs thyme, plus 2 teaspoons (10 ml) finely chopped thyme

Flaky salt, for serving

Preparation:

Heat the oven to 425 degrees F (218 C). In a large bowl, toss together the chicken with 1 tablespoon (15 ml) olive oil, garlic and za’atar, if using. Season well with salt and pepper. Place the shallots and the grapes on the sheet pan and gently toss with the remaining olive oil and season well with salt.

Nestle the chicken skin side up in between the shallots and grapes and lay the thyme sprigs on top of the mixture. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes until the chicken is cooked through and the shallots and grapes begin to soften and caramelize around the edges of the pan.

Turn the oven to broil and move the oven rack to sit right below it. Remove and discard the thyme sprigs and broil the chicken for 1 to 2 minutes until the skin of the chicken is crispy and golden. Scatter with chopped thyme and season with flaky salt. Serves 4-6.

From the New York Times

This recipe was one of the most popular on the New York Times cooking website in 2018. It’s easy to see why: chicken cutlets bathed in a butter-lemon-wine sauce are fast enough for a weeknight supper and fancy enough to serve at a dinner party.

Avoiding Additives and Preservatives

I used Imagine Organic brand chicken stock and a white wine from Frogpond Farm. Be sure to use freshly squeezed lemon juice.

Use chicken cutlets or cut chicken breasts in half horizontally

Quickly brown the cutlets

When the sauce is ready, return the cutlets to the pan and heat through

Chicken Francese

Ingredients:

2 eggs

2 tablespoons (30 ml) whole milk

1 teaspoon (5 ml) salt, plus more for seasoning

½ teaspoon (2.5 ml) ground black pepper, plus more for seasoning

1 cup (250 ml) all-purpose flour

⅓ cup (82.5 ml) olive oil

⅓ cup (82.5) vegetable oil

4 to 6 large boneless, skinless chicken cutlets (buy the cutlets thinly sliced, or buy regular boneless breasts and slice them in half horizontally to make thin pieces)

3 to 6 tablespoons (45 to 90 ml) unsalted butter

1 lemon, thinly sliced, seeds removed (optional)

½ cup (125 l) dry white wine

Freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon, more to taste

2 cups (500 ml) chicken stock

3 to 4 tablespoons (45 to 60 ml) freshly minced parsley

Preparation:

In a wide, shallow bowl, whisk eggs, milk, salt and pepper until blended. Place the flour in a separate bowl. Line a baking sheet with paper towels.

In a wide skillet, heat olive and vegetable oils over medium heat until shimmering.

Working in batches to avoid crowding the pan, lightly dredge the chicken in flour and shake off any excess. Dip into egg batter, let excess batter drip back into the bowl and place in the skillet. Fry, turning once, until golden brown on both sides, about 4 minutes per side. Adjust the heat as the cutlets cook so they brown slowly and evenly, with a steady bubbling. Transfer to the paper-towel-lined pan and repeat with remaining cutlets.

When all cutlets are browned, remove the pan from the heat and pour off the oil. Wipe out the pan with paper towels. Return the pan to low heat.

If making the lemon slices (if not, skip to Step 6 below): Melt 3 tablespoons (45 ml) of the butter and then scatter the lemon slices over the bottom of the pan. Cook, stirring gently occasionally, until the lemon slices are golden and browning around the edges, about 3 minutes. Scoop out the lemon slices and set them aside.

Add 3 tablespoons (45 ml) of butter, the wine and lemon juice and bring to a boil. Boil until the liquid is syrupy, 3 to 4 minutes. Pour in the stock, bring to a boil and cook until thickened into a sauce, about 5 minutes. (It will thicken more when you add the cutlets.) Taste and adjust the seasonings with lemon, salt and pepper; it should be quite lemony and not too salty.

Reduce the heat, tuck the cutlets into the pan and simmer very gently until the sauce is velvety and the chicken pieces are heated through, about 4 minutes. Turn the cutlets over occasionally in the sauce. Place the browned lemon slices on top. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve, spooning some of the sauce over each serving. Serves 4.

From the New York Times

This luscious pasta from Food and Drink is comfort food at its best. Cooked pasta is mixed with crisp bacon, pepper, butter, shallots, white wine, cream and asiago cheese. Garnish with more bacon, cheese and pepper and enjoy!

Avoiding Additives and Preservatives

Look for bacon preserved with celery salt instead of nitrites, butter that contains only cream and Asiago without any colour or preservatives added. I used a white wine from Frogpond Farm with a sulfite level below 10 parts per million.

This luscious pasta dish is made with bacon, pepper, cream, wine, shallot and Asiago cheese

Cook bacon until crisp

Add shallot and then cream, cooked pasta, pepper and cheese

Bow-tie pasta with crispy bacon and peppery Asiago sauce

Ingredients:

8 cups (2 L) bow-tie pasta, cooked according to package directions

Salt

1 tbsp (15 ml) olive oil

1 tbsp (15 ml) whole white or black peppercorns

2 cups (500 ml) diced bacon, about 17 to 17 ½ oz (485 to 500 g)

1 tbsp (15 ml) butter

1 shallot, finely chopped

½ cup (125 ml) dry white wine

¾ cup (175 ml) 35% (whipping) cream

2 cups (500 ml) grated Asiago, plus more for garnishing if desired

Preparation:

Cook pasta according to package directions in well-salted water. Just before draining pasta, collect and reserve about ¼ to ½ cup (60 to 125 ml) of the salty, starchy pasta water.

Add drained pasta to a large bowl, drizzle with about 1 tbsp (15 ml) olive oil, and toss to coat. Cover and set aside at room temperature. The oil will prevent the pieces of pasta from sticking together.

Add the whole peppercorns to a heavy-duty freezer bag and smash with a wooden mallet or rolling pin, to just coarsely crack; set aside.

Into a very large skillet over medium heat, add the diced pancetta; stir occasionally and fry until the pancetta is beginning to crisp up and render its fat—about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, lift out about one-third of the fried pancetta and set aside on paper towel to drain; you’ll use this as a finishing garnish.

Drain and save excess fat from the skillet, leaving about 1 tbsp (15 ml). Save the pancetta fat for roasting potatoes or frying eggs.

Add the cracked peppercorns, butter and shallot to the skillet; stir and fry until the shallot becomes translucent, about another 5 minutes.

Add the white wine; stir and scrape up the cooked-on tasty pancetta bits from the bottom of the skillet.

Reduce heat to medium-low. Add the cream, cooked pasta and reserved pasta water a bit at a time, stirring until pasta is creamy and coated.

Remove from heat, add the grated cheese, stir to combine, taste and adjust for saltiness. Serve at once garnished with a few crispy bits of pancetta and more cheese on top. Serious pepper fans can bring the grinder to the table. Serves 6.

From Food and Drink

This recipe from Simple, by Yotam Ottolengthi, is a nice break from the rich food we’ve all been eating over the holidays. Fish cakes are topped with yogurt, onion, mango and chile and served on corn tortillas. It looks and tastes great. I omitted the mango.

Avoiding Additives and Preservatives

Make sure the yogurt and tortillas are additive-free. I make my own tortillas with masa harina flour, salt and water.

Prepare onion, chile and yogurt

Form fish mixture into round cakes and fry

Cook for about three minutes per side

Place fish cake on tortilla and top with yogurt, onion and chile

Ingredients:

1 lb (450 g) sustainably sourced plaice fillets (or similar white fish), skinned, pin-boned and cut into 1-inch (2-3cm) chunks
1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed
1 egg
1½ tsp (7.5 ml) cumin seeds, toasted and finely crushed
4 limes, zest finely grated, then cut into halves, to serve
Salt
1 cup (20 g) coriander leaves, finely chopped
½ cup (125 g) Greek-style yogurt
½ red onion, peeled and very finely sliced (use a mandolin, ideally)
⅓ mango, peeled and cut into julienne strips
1 red chile, deseeded and cut into julienne strips
3 tbsp (45 ml) vegetable oil
12 corn tortillas (6-inch/15cm-wide ones)

Preparation:

Put the fish, garlic and egg in the bowl of a food processor with a teaspoon (5 ml) of cumin, three-quarters of the lime zest and three-quarters (3.75 ml) of a teaspoon of salt. Blitz briefly to a rough paste, then tip into a medium bowl. Stir in half the coriander, then form the mix into 12 round fishcakes. Refrigerate for at least 15 minutes (and up to four hours), to firm up.

In a small bowl, mix the yogurt with the remaining half-teaspoon (2.5 ml) of cumin, the remaining lime zest and an eighth of a teaspoon of salt (0.6 ml).

In a second small bowl, combine the onion, mango and chile.

Heat the oil in a large, nonstick frying pan on a medium-high flame, then fry the fishcakes in batches for two to three minutes a side, until golden-brown and cooked through. Transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper.

Warm the tacos in a dry frying pan or in the oven and cut the fishcakes in half. Top each taco with two fishcake halves and a spoonful each of the yoghurt and the mango salsa, and sprinkle with coriander. Serve with a lime half. Makes 12 tacos.

From Simple by Yotam Ottolenghi

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